Standing in the kitchen of Seau's The Restaurant in San Diego with his white apron and raw-egg splattered hands, Fred McCrary looks the part. Not of the Chargers starting fullback -- but of the chef he's attempting to be for the day.

ESPN The Magazine's "Gridiron Chef" competition, spoofing the Food Network's Iron Chef, between Fred, a former teenage cook for Ponderosa Steakhouse, and Chargers rook Drew Brees, a backyard barbecue guru, is heating up, and Fred doesn't want to leave out any flavor.

"I am smearing bacon on my apron," Fred admits. "You always see a chef's apron dirty, so mine's going to be dirty, too." Preparing garnishes and perfecting the presentation of a dropped plate, Fred makes eye contact with a man who's wandered in the kitchen.

"I'm looking for Jeff. Can you tell me where he is?" the deliveryman inquires. "I guess I do look the part," Fred smiles, waving an application for employment at Seau's. "Look out, guys," he tells the harried chefs. "I'll be back after my other career's over."

The crew continues its morning prep work without a head nod. They must have overheard Fred's five-minute explanation about his favorite spice: Lawry's. "It works for everything," he insists.

Taste-testing judge Tim Dwight critiques the three breakfast plates prepared by Fred (no Lawry's in sight) and compares the goods to Brees' eggs. "Fred cooks like he dresses, with flash," he says. The winner pumps his fist in victory. And still he looks the part.

Shelly Gepfert covers The Life for ESPN The Magazine. E-mail shelly.gepfert@espnmag.com.